Wing - Left Flaps and Ailerons

2004-06-15 - Flap and aileron preparation. (2.0 Hrs).

It's been awhile since I updated the website. That's because I went on a cruise to Hawaii. Unlike some other builders, I had a great time. I missed building, but it's nice to take a break and relax. Anyway, this is some work that I didn't have time to log before I went on vacation.

More preparation before priming the left aileron and flaps today. Dimpled all of the parts, and countersunk the aileron counterbalance.

Clamp-down the counterbalance so the holes can be countersunk. Note, a few days after priming, I discovered that these holes should have been drilled to #30, not #40. For whatever reason, all of the holes in the aileron are prepunched to 3/32". However, the leading-edge counterbalance and the bottom spar get CS4-4 blind rivets, so you have to drill these out to #30. This is clearly stated in the instructions and the plans, so beware.

Dimpling the leading-edge of the aileron to the counterbalance using the C-frame tool. As previously noted, the silver 3/32" clecos indicate the incorrect sized holes. This will get redone correctly before I assemble the aileron.

This produced good dimples.

A lot of new builders ask "how do you dimple the holes on the end of the ribs where it is too narrow for the squeezer?" The answer is to simply bend the end of the flange outward, dimple the parts, then bend it back.

Like so.

All of the parts dimpled and scuffed, ready to be primed.

Notice the difference between the original waterpipe on the top and the sanded counterbalance. Unfortunately, this was still not enough prep for the counterbalance. The primer seemed to come off pretty easily when I handled the part during assembly. I'm not too concerned. It would probably take a few hundred years to corrode the counterbalance enough to be a problem. It's a waterpipe, the same as is used in your plumbing, it likes water.

	Clamp-down the counterbalance so the holes can be countersunk. Note, a few days after priming, I discovered that these holes should have been drilled to #30, not #40. For whatever reason, all of the holes in the aileron are prepunched to 3/32". However, the leading-edge counterbalance and the bottom spar get CS4-4 blind rivets, so you have to drill these out to #30. This is clearly stated in the instructions and the plans, so beware.
	Dimpling the leading-edge of the aileron to the counterbalance using the C-frame tool. As previously noted, the silver 3/32" clecos indicate the incorrect sized holes. This will get redone correctly before I assemble the aileron.
	This produced good dimples.
	A lot of new builders ask "how do you dimple the holes on the end of the ribs where it is too narrow for the squeezer?" The answer is to simply bend the end of the flange outward, dimple the parts, then bend it back.
	Like so.
	All of the parts dimpled and scuffed, ready to be primed.
	Notice the difference between the original waterpipe on the top and the sanded counterbalance. Unfortunately, this was still not enough prep for the counterbalance. The primer seemed to come off pretty easily when I handled the part during assembly. I'm not too concerned. It would probably take a few hundred years to corrode the counterbalance enough to be a problem. It's a waterpipe, the same as is used in your plumbing, it likes water.