Wing - Right Wing

2004-10-02 - Riveting the top skins. (4.5 Hrs).

I spent an hour finishing-up the last 15 rivets on the leading edge spar-to-rib joints. This is because I wanted to use solid rivets where I could, and I spent a fair amount of time driving these rivets, when I could have just as easily used pop rivets on all of them.

After finishing the leading edge, I installed the tank, and started riveting the top inboard skins to the wing. I must have spent a lot of time on the tanks, because I don't see where it could take three hours to rivet half of the top inboard skins.

Here's the LP4-3 rivets on the inboard leading edge rib. The LP4-3 rivets may be just a little short here.

This is why you put the manufactured head of the rivet on the thinner material. Notice that the edge of the flange curls up a little. This cannot be avoided, since the other side is another rib flange (this is the outboard leading edge rib, which is riveted to the spar and the outboard trailing edge rib).

Alright, who was responsible for making sure that all of the holes were dimpled on the skins? It may be hard to tell, but the hole to the right of the cleco is not dimpled. I seem to remember that this happened on the bottom inboard skin of the left wing, also. Someone needs to start checking these things.

First drill-out. The right-most rivet is mangled.

Dufus has quite a reach. He's blind as a bat, tough.

Believe it or not, these four ribs are quite a bit of work to rivet. You can do two rivets before you have to pull your hand out of the holes in the ribs and move down to the next smaller hole. Towards the bottom, your hand no longer fits inside the rib holes, and you have to use the foot-long bucking bar, which gets real heavy reaching all the way around to buck while you reach all the way around to the other side to drive the rivets. This is slow and tiring work.

Since the bottom skins are off, you can go around to the back side and inspect all of your rivets. These look mostly good. Only a few were questionable.

I managed to do the bottom half of the next three ribs, also. I'm beat, that's enough for today.

	Here's the LP4-3 rivets on the inboard leading edge rib. The LP4-3 rivets may be just a little short here.
	This is why you put the manufactured head of the rivet on the thinner material. Notice that the edge of the flange curls up a little. This cannot be avoided, since the other side is another rib flange (this is the outboard leading edge rib, which is riveted to the spar and the outboard trailing edge rib).
	Alright, who was responsible for making sure that all of the holes were dimpled on the skins? It may be hard to tell, but the hole to the right of the cleco is not dimpled. I seem to remember that this happened on the bottom inboard skin of the left wing, also. Someone needs to start checking these things.
	First drill-out. The right-most rivet is mangled.
	Dufus has quite a reach. He's blind as a bat, tough.
	Believe it or not, these four ribs are quite a bit of work to rivet. You can do two rivets before you have to pull your hand out of the holes in the ribs and move down to the next smaller hole. Towards the bottom, your hand no longer fits inside the rib holes, and you have to use the foot-long bucking bar, which gets real heavy reaching all the way around to buck while you reach all the way around to the other side to drive the rivets. This is slow and tiring work.
	Since the bottom skins are off, you can go around to the back side and inspect all of your rivets. These look mostly good. Only a few were questionable.
	I managed to do the bottom half of the next three ribs, also. I'm beat, that's enough for today.